This recipe is continually being updated as I try new ideas, using old candle wax, bought soy wax and any recycled containers. As I progress so too will this recipe, all leading to the creation of a beautifully fragranced candle one would be proud to light.
One package of candle wax
One package of candle wicks
One spatula
One double boiler
One thermometer
One wick centring tool
One pillar candle centring tool (lolly stick with 2.5mm hole in centre)
One container for candle
One 2.5mm centring rod
Before I begin the candle-making process, I have to ensure my area is clean and free from hazards otherwise Mrs WH will be taking me to one side.
Now onto the fun, how to measure how much wax I need. Filling the end receptacle with water, I measure the amount of water and round it up to the nearest 10ml. Deduct 20% from that figure and that is the number of grams you need, so they say. The reason for this is 1ml of water weighs exactly 1 gram, so they are equal, but wax is slightly less dense than water, so we deduct 20% to get the amount of wax – For example:
495ml of water in the container/mould – round up to 500ml. Deduct 20% from that figure (100) giving you 400 – so you need 400g of wax.
Filling my recently acquired double boiler pot with hot water, making sure there’s enough room for the smaller pan holding the wax otherwise I'll be cleaning the hob. Placing the required amount of wax into container which is then carefully placed into boiler pot. The water is then brought to the boil and the wax begins to melt.
Wax should be melted until it reaches a temperature of approximately 70° to 80°C.
For container candles the wick needs to be attached to the bottom of your container before you pour in the wax. I attach the wick by gluing it to the bottom of the container, however i have some sticky tabs but have yet to utilise them. Placing the wick centring tool over the wick and slotting wick into the designated wick centring gap.
For pillar candles I insert the wick rod into the wick hole in mould and seal it at the base of the pillar mould with Blu Tack and use the prepared lolly stick to support it.
When the candle wax has melted, it’s time to add fragrance oil. I have used eucalyptus pure essential oil at a ratio of 5% fragrance oil to wax in this case 10ml, starting at a low ratio as a newbie to all this “fragrance”. Various people recommend using between 6-10%, anything more and your candle may not set, I’m not far off low end and can always up ratio on my next attempt. Once wax cooled to around 70°C I added the fragrance oil, stirred the wax thoroughly for a minimum of 2 mins.
Before I pour the wax into your container, let it cool for a few minutes. When the temperature on the thermometer reads about 60°C, it’s time to slowly pour the wax into your container/mould to desired height.
To prevent your wick from swaying in the melted wax, leave centring tool in place. This is where I could do with a number of tools so I could carry on creating, note add to shopping list.
After about 2.5 hours I removed the wick/rod centring tool and topped up candle to fill any dip that may have formed, I found this was not necessary on the pillar candles due to the fact once out of mould you can turn upside down hiding the imperfections, however, that said if using recycled candle wax you do get some black debris at bottom . Soy wax candles generally take the least amount of time – around 5 hours to cool and solidify.
When the pillar candle has fully set, around 5 hours after the initial pour, I removed the wicking rod and popped the candle out of the mould then threaded the pre-waxed wick through the hole in candle.
Let the candle cure for 48 hours.
Your candle wick should be less than half an inch long. If, when lit, the candle flickers or has a tall flame, trim the wick. For pillar candles I also cut off the sustainer as candle sits on a spike on candlestick.