Caning

Most cane woven patterns are based around the traditional six way weave, so called because there are six separate stages to the process. If the chair is being refinished and re-caned it is my preference to finish any structural and waxing first and not tempt to stain the cane but leave the much lighter in coloured cane too discolour naturally with age and use.

 

Caning Options

Pressed Cane

Usually found on more modern chairs it is identifiable by a reed around the outside edge that is recessed into a groove routed into the top of the wood frame that holds in place a pre-woven sheet of cane that is driven, glued and finally secured by the spline in the groove.
This system was developed to allow the mass production of caned pieces, and has been in use since the late 1920's.

 

Hand Cane

Usually found on older chairs it is easy to identify because there are individual holes in the wood frame for each strand of cane. The pattern of the hand weave is controlled by the holes in the wood frame. Sometimes you can encounter a chair that was originally fitted for hand cane that has subsequently been fitted with a plywood top, bought as a kit. In those cases if the line of holes in the wood is intact, or can be recreated, it is possible to put the chair back to its original appearance with any needed wood repairs.

 

French Cane, French Caning

Usually found only on older chairs blind caning is usually reserved for use in the backs or under the arms of chairs rather than in the seats, because it’s not very strong. The blind hole approach involves the drilling of shallow holes only part way into the frame, and then woven in the traditional six way weave method with regular cane. Since the holes do not go through the frame, each length of cane must be cut to the exact length needed and fixed in the holes with a peg "golf tee" and once complete fixed in place with dowel pegs. From experience of my dining room chair project this method is slow going and at times frustrating.