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Footstool

This was purchased sometime ago as a weaving project but as per usual, having being added to the ever growing project list, it was placed aside, in a corner of the house to gather dust and slowly deteriorate with time.

Step 1.

Considering what was to be done (as it’s a learning project), I opted for seagrass rather than the original rush; I believed that this might be easier - though only time will tell. When time permitted, I began to gather information such as,‘How to weave a seat and what is required…’ and, after a quick check in the garage, I concluded that I have the necessary tools (or will make do) and would purchase two rolls of seagrass.

Step 2.

Next it was time to get down to the bare frame and with the rush seat pad removed, I commenced the clean, filling any large dents with the best colour matched shellac filler sticks. This was followed by a hand sanding using a fine grade paper. Once satisfied, the frame was ready for polish.

Step 3.

Now it’s time for the shellacking and polish; I followed the same principles as here and once happy with the overall appearance I gave it a buffing with 0000 steel wool. I applied two coats of wax and buffed up in anticipation for the next stage.

Step 4.

I begin by securing one end of the seagrass strand to the left side of the stool. Weaving technique involves employing an over-under pattern: pass the seagrass over one strut and under the next, repeating this sequence consistently.

Step 5.

I continue weaving until I need to extend length of the seagrass. At this point I tie another length of seagrass to the end, using a reef knot and cutting loose ends back. A quick check on the weaving helps to make it as neat as possible. However, after numerous undoing and redoing in the aim of perfection - or maybe my OCD tendencies not sure, I eventually get a grip and  accept it for what it is vowing to stop being so critical.

Step 6.

Having continued the weaving I arrive at the point where the seat needs padding with cardboard triangles. This fills any voids in an aid to stop it sinking and eventually breaking the cord. It usually requires one or two pieces in each quarter, above and below. In my case it was two in each quarter, on top and one in each quarter below.

Step 7.

I continue weaving the over-under pattern, ensuring each seagrass strand is tightly woven. The goal is to keep the weave tight and consistent throughout the entire process, utilising my hammer and wooden wedge to align strands by tapping in place. As I get to the middle the centre hole closes up, that's where I use a caning peg (golf tee) and tap that in the hole, it’s the only way to poke strand in a hole and pull up.

Step 8.

I continue weaving the over-under pattern, ensuring each seagrass strand is tightly woven. The goal is to keep the weave tight and consistent throughout the entire process, utilising my hammer and wooden wedge to align strands by tapping in place. As I get to the middle the centre hole closes up, that's where I use a caning peg (golf tee) and tap that in the hole, it’s the only way to poke strand in a hole and pull up.

 

Job Complete.

Lessons.

As I ponder my finished work I realised that this was not as easy as anticipated. As a consequence a number of lessons were learnt.

  1. Over-under weaving pattern forms the basis of the entire process, thus, checking at regular points that I had not deviated from was essential.
  2. Don’t use too much cord as it soon turns into a bird’s nest of knots.
  3. Check that the length of cord does not have any significant flaws which will require cutting out.
  4. It is crucial to maintain tension throughout the weaving process.
  5. Continually check pattern for gaps and close with hammer and wedge.
Mr WH